Spring in the Languedoc...

We now return to our regular scheduled programming....

Just on the off chance, we swung by the airport on Saturday afternoon to see if the full flight back to Bristol had a couple of empty seats. They did, and finally everyone has been returned to their rightful places, albeit 10 days later than planned, and the panic created by the thought of having to live together for the rest of our lives is slowly fading into a distant (but not quite yet humorous) memory.

There is already talk of the next family visit in September. I shall be monitoring the state of all volcanoes within a 2,000 mile radius between now and then very carefully indeed.

And the little ladies are back in school after their 2-week Spring holiday. They came home from school before the break wearing their winter coats and boots, and have now gone back in sandals, sunscreen and short sleeves.

The garden has gone from bare-branches to full-leaf in a matter of 10 days- the hot pink geraniums are flowering in their pots, the purple and white irises are just about finished, and the petals from the blousy pale pink peonies are already scattered on the ground.

The vineyards are budding, changing the hilly landscape around us from stark lines to swathes of green, with cherry and almond blossoms, yellow gorse, and flowering wild rosemary adding little dashes of brillant colour. The sky is that bright, cornflower blue I remember from my childhood set of Crayola crayons. Our windows are open and the birds' nests in the garden are full of movement and chirping.

This has to be my favourite time of year in the Languedoc, before the scorching, bleaching sun reaches its full strength, before the hoardes of holidaymakers crowd the roads, before a fan becomes a necessity for sleeping on a sweltering summer night. Soon running and dog-walking will need to be done very early or very late, and the warmth of the sun on the back of my head will become an unwelcome prospect.

But before I have to arm myself with shade-finding strategies, I'm going to enjoy sitting in my hammock with a good book in the Spring sunshine, where neither the beach or pool yet beckons me, and the act of getting into a swimsuit is still a comfortable couple of months away.

Hope you, too, have a hammock somewhere with your name on it...

Camping 2...

Following on from the success of the first Camping movie in 2006, Camping 2 comes out today in France. A friend recommended the first one to me as a good representation of current French humour. Funny in a the best kind of awkward, cringeworthy way, the film takes place on a typical French seaside campsite, with larger than life characters drawn from real-life French society.

'Camping 2' should be just as funny, and Lord knows I could use a little levity right now. Next available flight to UK......next Monday!

The Duchess vs The Volcano...

Remember that post where I extolled the virtues of living in Europe? So close to so many countries, one of the best perks of living in the south of France.... That is unless one of those countries owns a volcano which decides to errupt and create travel chaos, just as the Walking English Megaphone is trying to flee, I mean, fly, back home.

We are on day 8 of his 4-day stay. We are getting a little anxious. We hope that his re-scheduled flight from Béziers to Bristol will leave on Wednesday, but we are not too convinced that it will. Ever heard the saying 'When America sneezes, the world catches a cold'? Well, Iceland has sneezed and some of it has landed on the Dukedom.

I know in the grand scheme of things, we are lucky. We aren't sleeping at the airport, or missing a family wedding or a funeral, and aren't one of the 4 teachers stranded with 40 15-year old British schoolchildren in Shanghai. But still. We are a little family who like to keep family visits short and sweet. We love each other in small doses. This may get interesting.

Anyone else out there been affected by the volcano chaos? Hope you all are where you want to be, or can get where you want to be going. Thanks to one of the other great perks of living in France, we do have a plentiful supply of wine to see us through...

New books on France for April...

Not a heck of alot going on for new books on France this month in publishing. Managed to find three, though, that weren't just new releases of guidebooks. As usual, please let me know if I've missed any little gems...






Walnut Wine and Truffle Groves by Kimberly Lavato









Parisians: An Adventure History of Paris by Graham Robb








Horseshoes and Holy Water: On the Hoof from Canterbury to Santiago de Compostela by Mefo Phillips

The Return of Françoise Hardy...

The French 60's icon, Françoise Hardy, is back in the news with the release of her 26th album, La pluie sans parapluie. The first single from the album, Noir sur blanc, produced in collaboration with Calogero, shows that La Grande Dame de la chanson française is back on brillant form.

I've always had a soft spot for Françoise Hardy. I clearly remember the day back in Junior High School French class when my teacher, Mme Barber, first put on the scratchy record of Tous les garçons et les filles. Sitting in class in South Dakota, I was suddenly transported to Paris, an exotic country full of lovers and romance, of rain-splashed streets full of couples walking hand in hand. I even chose 'Françoise' as my name in class for the rest of the year. Forget Audrey Hepburn and Brigitte Bardot, I wanted to be Françoise Hardy.

We'll always have Cannes...

As some of you readers may know, Cannes holds a special place in my heart. It's the first place I lived in France (as a student back in 1993), the place where I met and fell in love with the Duke, and the place where I shed so many of my smalltown American ideologies. I may have been a fish out of water with no gold shoes, but Cannes was an amazing eye-opener for me, in so many ways.

With 2000 dollars worth of French francs in my pocket, having just cut off all of my hair (think Jane Mancini in Melrose Place), I was ready to take on the world, starting with France. I wasn't prepared for the yachts, the glitz, or the other European students wearing Gucci and arriving on their private jets.

Oh the naïveté, but it didn't matter, I was in France, people!

Had I really known what Cannes was like before I left, I probably would have chosen Grenoble, which was the other option. Somehow I missed the part in the guidebook that said it was the playground of the rich and famous, and so I set off to study, in my own clueless, Beverly Hillbilly fashion.

Between the beach, the bars, the wine-tastings, and the flirting with the waiters at the Carlton after hours, there wasn't much studying going on. Although I'm sure that the education I got out of the classroom was worth every penny of my hard-earned scholarship.

There are certain memories that stand out in high definition- walking home along the port at 5am and hearing the news from one of the yacht's radios that Kurt Cobain had just died, tasting ravioli so beautiful I thought I would die at a little restaurant called Chez Max, and walking up the red carpet at the Cannes Film Festival on the Duke's arm.

One of the 'perks' of studying at the International College de Cannes was that we all got passes to the Film Festival, which allowed us access to as many films as we wanted to see, and the chance to walk up the red carpet. Formal dress required, of course. I die in shame with embarrassement now, thinking about it, but at the time, for just that 5 minutes, I felt the love of my adoring fans....

So, every year around this time, when they release the new film festival poster and are about ready to release the official selection of this year's films (on April 15), I get a little nostalgic. While a year in Cannes was enough for this hick from the sticks, I love remembering how back then, even I felt like a rock star. What more could a girl ask for on her first year abroad?

Robert De Niro's waiting...

Here in the Languedoc, you are almost as likely to hear Spanish on a daily basis as you are French. My vet often goes off on a Spanish tangent and at my Thursday night Flamenco dance class, it's very easy to imagine that I'm living in rural Spain. Tapas are on almost every menu, and I think the ratio of cava to champagne in my wine rack is prettily heftily in favour of the former.

Luckily, I minored in Spanish at university (although everytime I go to Barcelona I realize how useless Mexican Spanish is in Catalonia....), and I manage to pick up words here and there. I love the Spanish-influenced flavour of the local accent.

But I dream of being able to speak Italian. I've been trying to teach myself, unsuccessfully, for the last 5 years or so. I have all the books and CDs and even had a private tutor for awhile. The tutor was interesting because of course she was teaching me Italian in French, which just made it all the more difficult for me to concentrate.

I think I get to a point where I have a good grasp of the language, then I'm in Italy, and all I can do is speak in French. It's like my brain is telling me I need to be speaking a foreign language, so hey, French will do. All of my efforts at studying Italian fly right out the old finestra.

If only I lived over by Nice, where the chances of picking up Italian would be so much easier. Although, of course, then I'd probably be living in a shoe box, unable to afford to go to Italy, but nevermind. I guess I'll just have to continue the old-fashioned way.

Although I'm starting to think that maybe you can't teach an old dog new tricks. I watch the little ladies gadding about speaking French and English with perfect accents and I have to fight back the envy. My 7-year old says that she wants to start learning Italian with me. That's like saying Carl Lewis wants to start going running with me. Nothing like a 7-year old multi-linguist to spur you into action.

I know I'm lucky to be able to speak passable French. I see so many foreigners living here who struggle daily, unable to speak the language. And while I know that I should concentrate on perfecting my French, there's just something about Italian that makes me dreamy. They say the best way to learn a language is take a lover who speaks that language, but somehow I doubt the Duke would be up for that, no matter how supportive he is.

How about you? Any fluent Italian speakers out there? I'll trade you half my French for half your Italian...

C'est le printemps...

Forecast is for grey and rain all week, except for Tuesday, when it is supposed to be sunny and 7O° degrees. And so it goes, Spring in the south of France. Do I wear the winter coat, the boots, take the umbrella or get the flip flops out? Makes getting myself and the 2 little ladies dressed in the morning so much more 'fun'.

Life is ticking along pleasantly here. Just booked our summer holiday near Sansepolcro in Tuscany, the calendar is filling up with summer visitors, and had a great night on Saturday night at an outdoor (okay, heated terrace) local food and wine fête in Béziers. Summer is so close I can almost taste it.

On the agenda this week, delving into the winter-torn garden, a very first gymnastics meet for my 7-year old, and a trip to the circus for my 5-year old (the one child who is most likely to run away with the circus).

Happy Spring wherever you are, may your days be filled with bright yellow flowers, lunches in the sunshine, and not too much Spring cleaning...

I *heart* Marion Cotillard...

Beautiful, talented, and a sense of humour, what's not to love?

New books on France for Feb/Mar...

Not too much going on in the publishing world for French-related books at the moment, although there are loads of new guides and maps that come out at this time of year, like the new Rough Guide to Paris and the 2010 Michelin Guide. Still, mananged to find a smattering that look interesting:




Lunch in Paris: A Love Story with Recipes by Elizabeth Bard








Back Roads France: Scenic Routes - Charming Hotels - Authentic Cuisine by DK Eyewitness Guides





Frommer's Paris Free and Dirt Cheap by Anna E. Brooke









The Invention of Paris by Eric Hazan










Colors of Provence: Traditions, Recipes and Home Decorations from the South of France by Michel Biehn

Pony Pony Run Run...

Sounds like my 5-year old after she's eaten too many Gummy Bears, but is in fact the current French Pop/Rock sensation sweeping the nation (love using cheesy statements like that...).

'You Need Pony Pony Run Run' is the first studio album by the group Pony Pony Run Run, a trio of lads from Angers who formed the group in Nantes as Beaux Arts students, whose style has been called French Indie Electropop, with a slight 80's influence.

Most of their songs seem to be in English, which bodes well for them internationally, just hope they don't get lost amongst all the other Indie art school bands out there. 'Hey You' was their first single which was pretty big last summer.

It was all about prison and a see-through dress...

Luckily, or not, depending on how you look at it, my weekend's activities included neither of these excitements. But after the 35th Annual César Film Awards (think Oscars with a French accent), these are the hot topics of conversation I'm sure are making the rounds of water-coolers throughout the country today.

Un Prophète, directed by Jacques Audiard, swept the awards, including best film, best director, best actor and best screenplay. The film, which had already received high praise at the Cannes Festival earlier this year, is also up for an Oscar for best foreign-language film.

Un Prophète tells the story of Malik El Djebena (played by Tahar Rahim), a 19-year old Arab man who has been sent to prison for 6 years for an assault on police. He is taken under the wing of fellow inmate Cesar Luciani (played by Niels Arestrup), head of the Corsican mafia gang, who pretty much rule the prisoners. After doing some of Luciani's dirty work, Malik, who teaches himself how to read while in prison, begins to make his own dangerous power play. The result is an almost art-house French gangster film, dealing with cultural identities and marginalisation; in other words, French society today.

On a lighter note, the other senasational story of the night, particularly for the male viewer, was the transparent YSL dress worn by Laetitia Casta. This reminds me of the Versace safety-pin dress worn by Elizabeth Hurley to the premier of 'Four Weddings and a Funeral' back in 1994.

I wonder just how much hemming and hawing was involved before this dress was chosen. Gives new meaning to the term Little Black Dress, non?

Does this shock you?

This is the new anti-smoking campaign launched by L'Association Droits des Non- Fumeurs (The association for the rights of non-smokers).

It's says "Fumer, c'est être esclave du tabac" (To smoke is to be a slave to tabacco). And obviously they are comparing it to a whole nother kind of slavery. The DNF stated they wanted an image that was shocking to get young people's attention.

Not sure which of the two is better for teenagers to be thinking about...

What do you think? Effective? Shocking? Tasteless?

Pure France Summer 2010...

This is the post where I make a shameless plug for the Duke's company, Pure France, specialists in holiday rental villas and chateaux throughout France.

One of the downsides of living in France is that we don't really 'holiday' in France anymore, at least not like we used to when we lived in England. But everytime a new beautiful property is added to the Pure France portfolio, I secretly wish that we lived in Italy and took our summer holidays in France.

If you or anyone you know is looking for a place to spend their summer holiday in France this summer, have a look at the website, it's full of gorgeous French property eye-candy, located in some of the most beautiful parts of the country!

A little snow was here and there...

Okay, so it's not exactly the blizzard that those of you around DC are experiencing, but just thought I'd commiserate with all of you who are currently knee-deep in the white stuff.

If it's snowing here on the Med, then it damn well better be snowing everywhere else!

Dingue Dingue Dingue

Number 1 on the French charts this week, Christophe Maé, with Dingue Dingue Dingue (Crazy, Crazy, Crazy). Bit middle of the road, but not too painful. I actually quite like his voice, but probably not everyone's cup of tea....

New books on France for January...

Here's a round-up of books published in January that talk France. As usual, let me know if I've missed any good ones!




Comptines de France pour les petits by Hervé Le Goff, Vincent Clément and others








Paris Patisseries: History, Shops, Recipes by Christian Sarramon and Pierre Herme








Buying a Piece of Paris: The Home of My Dreams in the City of Lights by Ellie Nielsen







In Love in France: A Traveler's Guide to the Most Romantic Destinations in the Land of Amour by Rhonda Carrier








For the Soul of France: Culture Wars in the Age of Dreyfus by Frederick Brown

Serge Gainsbourg- Vie Héroïque

Already being called the French film of 2010, Serge Gainsbourg- Vie Héroïque, the biopic of the man whom many consider to be one of France's all-time greatest singer/songwriters, was released last week in France.

Starting with his childhood as a Jewish boy growing up in Nazi-occupied Paris, the film goes on to tell the story of his career, from struggling painter to one of the country's biggest rock star bad boys.

I can only imagine how many later musicians have been inspired by the life of this cult French icon. From his hard-drinking lifestyle to his well-publicised love life, which included relationships with the likes of Brigitte Bardot and Jane Birken, Serge Gainsbourg's life reads like a manual on how to really do the whole sex, drugs, and rock and roll thing (particularly the sex bit...).

The film has been dedicated to Lucy Gordon, the young English actress who played Jane Birkin in the film, and who committed suicide in her apartment in Paris, shortly after filming finished.

Gainsbourg - Vie Héroïque - Trailer HD [VF]

Paris apartment...

I promised to tell you about the apartment I rented in Paris, which was fantastic. Although I'm kind of loathe to because I don't want it to be booked up next time I want to go!

It's in the 6th, very near rue Buci (one of my favourite streets in one of my fav areas), and the location couldn't be better. Walking distance to just about everything, lots of great bars and restaurants nearby, and a pretty safe area at night if traveling alone.

The main reason I chose it was that 3 people can sleep comfortably in their own bed, as opposed to just 2 double beds. Oh, and did I mention it had a terrace with AMAZING views? You can find it here.

Here's the view on the day I arrived, lovely and sunny:



And then the view on the day my family from the States arrived, lovely and snowy:



I've definitely been converted to an apartment renter in Paris. Nothing like having your own 'home' to stay in while in the city. Hotel rooms are so pokey in Paris, you never want to spend much time in them. And I know, why would you want to stay in your hotel room, but if you are staying for more than a few days, it's nice to be able to chill somewhere in between sight seeing, shopping, and eating. Not to mention that if you are sharing with someone, it usually works out much cheaper!

Of the 101 things I love about France...

and about my region (the Languedoc) in particular, #10 would have to be the buzz I get from living somewhere that is surrounded by so many interesting, historical places, and that is in such close proximity to so many other countries.

Even after 10 years, I still get a child-like thrill at seeing all of the license plates from countries like Slovenia, Poland, and Denmark pass me on the motorway. I love the fact that doing my job here means that one day I may have English clients, the next French or Swedish, and then maybe some Dutch or Germans the next day. Most of all, though, I'm grateful that when friends or family come to visit, we always have plenty to do and see.

My dad and uncle loved the fact that while they were here, they managed to fit in Paris, the Spanish border, St Tropez, Cannes, Monaco, northern Italy and Carcassonne. Not a bad initiation to Western Europe for my uncle's first visit. Although had they stayed longer, we may have been able to fit in the Pont du Gard, Arles, Avignon or even Marseilles.

Europeans are always asking me why Americans seem to travel abroad so relatively little compared to the rest of the world. While I can't speak for the entire American population (no, really, I can't....), I know alot of it has to do with the sheer distance involved. When I lived in California and went to university in Iowa, I had to drive for 30 hours twice a year. According to mappy, if I drove half that time from my house here in France, I could be in Budapest, Berlin, Prague, Amsterdam, or Zagreb.

I like the fact that my little ladies have traveled more in their first 5 years than I had in my first 20. I remember quite distinctly how I felt at the end of my semester abroad, when I should have returned to my small town university in Iowa, that after having seen Rome, I just couldn't bare the thought of leaving Europe. While I do miss America from time to time, I feel lucky to be living where I do.

Now I'm just wondering if my old Peugeot would actually make the trip to Budapest....